Eager to check out the world-class underwater offerings, we head out to densely-wooded Restorf Island. I’m momentarily hypnotised by the sight of a flying fish catapulting above the water’s surface and flitting along with tiny aquatic wings. The boat draws to a swift halt and the air fills with delighted squeals; A pod of dolphins splashes all around us. Lighting-fast, we plunge into the water and throw on our masks and snorkels, grasping the boat’s nets while it glides alongside the pod. The water is bath-warm as we are carried along underwater by the boat’s engine to frolic with ocean royalty.
Once we find the reef, a rainbow of coral, starfish and elephant sponges spread out beneath us, populated with dozens of species of fish. Someone points out a soft pink anenome dancing in the gentle current. Suddenly the dancing stops and then it is gone, sucked almost instantly into its tubular stem. Back on solid ground, the land shakes and grumbles. This is true jungle country, evidenced by countless butterflies and a steady, croaking chirrup-chirrup from the bushes. Papua New Guinea hides many treasures beneath its broad green canopy, but the best remains its mystery. By the time we leave, our senses and minds are exhausted, but really, I suspect, we haven’t even started.