There are only glimpses left of the harbour city that was home to a thriving business district, music and art venues, shops, grocery stores and World War II relics. The empty shell of the former local government building lies useless and abandoned, while the concrete stairs of the old theatre now lead to an empty stage lying in the open air. The only building that remains in working condition is the tough, worn-looking Rabaul Hotel. Despite its facade, it has the feel of a wise old soul; enduring, resilient and calm. We stop for lunch and watch the skeletal remains of the town peek out at us. The uniform grey under our feet aside, the view is anything but dull.
The deep aquamarine of the sea collides with white sulphur dust, burnt ochre lava stains and the light azure sky to create a striking palette of colours. Beyond the dark volcanic mounds, extinct peaks sprout with new green vegetation fed by the mineral-rich earth. It’s a sign of hope for locals, who are counting the days until their land glows with life again.
A mighty mountain
As we creep towards Tavurvur itself, the volcano dominates everything. Even the nearest section of harbour is given over to steaming hot springs, thermally charged and bubbling. It’s too hot to swim in, but our guidetells us of the old days, when villagers would lower their meat and vegetables into the steaming water to cook their evening meal.
There are no roads left in this part of town. Instead, short sticks mark out a path in the vast black expanse. The former airfield runs along the harbour, where planes once taxied by the water before taking off in an arc above Tavurvur. It must have given a terrific, though terrifying, view to passengers, before the airport closed for good in 1994. On the other side of the airfield we find Matupit Island. Planted on a sandbar curling away from the town centre and directly opposite the volcano, it’s no longer an island at all. A deadly blast from Tavurvur in 1937 coated ash across the narrow harbour, creating a land bridge to connect the 800-person-strong village to Rabaul proper.
